Post run clean-up, sticker removal

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Post run clean-up, sticker removal

Postby MunkySpunk » Thu Jan 03, 2008 2:26 pm

Any advice out there to keep your edges tarnish free and equipment in good running order when you get back to your room/house after a night out?

My question related especially to long-term life of the gear. I make sure to wipe the entire board down with a wet cloth to get the road salt (I have a roof rack) minerals off when I get home and then dry it off before stowing it. And nothing goes on the rack unless I can wipe the board down when I get to my destination.

Am I being paranoid? Anyone here ride it hard and put it away wet with no problems? How about moisture under the bindings? Experiences with roof racks would be appreciated.

My base is also showing dry spots (white cloudy areas at the edges) unless it's been freshly waxed, and even then they come back after one run. I'm going to assume there's no real restorative treatment for this, but anyone have any advice to keep it from happening to a new board that doesn't yet have these issues?

As for the sticker removal part: I was taking an ugly stomp pad and stickers off my 156 that the previous owner had thought were 'rad' or something. I used a blow dryer, lots of elbow grease, and 100% ethanol, which did the trick. To remove the cloudiness on the topsheet, minor blemishes, and stubborn sticker glue, I used Scratch-X from the autoparts store and even more elbow grease. I was so impressed with the resulting shine that I just went and did the entire topsheet anyway. Just an FYI.
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Postby Grizzled » Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:46 am

Picked up my "beater" board the other day for a ride. And whoops da edges were a rusted mess and the base was horrible looking. :roll: Must not have cleaned her up after last years final ride. Spent a couple hours workin on it last night. Get to wax er down tonight.

If your usin a roof rack, road grime and salt can be brutal on your board. Make sure you clean it up when ya get home. Let the snow/ice melt & run off, give it a good wipe down, dry the edges & clean the base.

Traded in my Grand Cherokee for a Pick-Up & I mounted the rack in the bed. The boards stay alot cleaner in the truck-bed than they did on top of the Jeep.

I'm really diggin the stainless steel edges on my newer board. Stays clean and sharp, alot less work.
Riding since '87
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Postby bernwern » Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:31 pm

For your edges, spray some WD40 on a cloth or napkin and rub it onto the edges before putting it on the roof rack...this will repel water and rust. Also, removing rust is easy- get a deburring stone and simply rub it away....as long as you do this once a week you should be fine, as the rust certainly won't take a deep hold and ruin your board in that time frame.

For base, are you hot-waxing? If you do a proper hot-wax you should not have dry spots like this. It sounds like rub-on wax wearing off and the base drying out.

Lastly, I haven't ever removed stickers, so thanks for the tip!

-B
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Postby MunkySpunk » Sat Jan 12, 2008 12:35 pm

bernwern wrote:For base, are you hot-waxing? If you do a proper hot-wax you should not have dry spots like this. It sounds like rub-on wax wearing off and the base drying out.

I hot wax, yes. But both my boards are used, and it's too late for me to warn their previous owners to keep the base in shape so it doesn't get cloudy. (unless anyone here has a time machine?? 8)). They came like this.

Last spring, I hot waxed both of them before putting them away. I didn't scrape the wax off, I let it sit all year as a protective coat. I scraped it off the night before first run of the season - believe you me, that wasn't easy: scraping wax at below freezing temps, good arm workout tho.

I hand wax every two or three runs during the season, not because I really notice a difference in performance (I'm just not that advanced yet), but beause I'm paranoid about keeping my base conditioned.

At any rate, I've been doing some googling, and the cloudiness is due to oxidation. Some sites say a shop can scrape it off, others say no. But the general consensus is you get it from repeatedly running with a dry board - another reason responsible adults make better boarders. :lol:

I'm just concerned b/c I got my wife a new board for Xmas and I don't want to see it go down the same path as mine previously have (oxdized base, rusty edged).
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Postby bernwern » Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:45 am

Good to know Munky....thanks for the clarification.

Yes, dry bases are near impossible to fix....just like rust on a car. Unfortunately there is no bondo to fix a base, and cutting out dry parts and ptexing it just isn't smart for many reasons. Shops can do some work to help, and the easiest thing I know of is a base grind IF the base is not fully dried to the core.

You may want to try a deep clean yourself, as it might help. Hotwax it just like a normal coat, but once smoothed, keep moving along quickly with the iron to keep the wax warm. Immediately scrape it while the wax is warm and soft, as this will open up the "pores" in the base and clean it pretty good. Get some base cleaner for like $10 and apply the liquid and buff it in, then dry it out quickly.....this should help pull any remaining dirt and old wax. Immediately re-wax with a good base-prep or all-temp wax and allow it to cool. Then do the usual scrape, cork, and reapply wax coats for current conditions. This should be a solid hour of work for 2-3 coats of end wax, but it may restore a bit more life in the base.

Lastly, big high-five for putting a summer coat on those boards! Too many people don't do this. When storing a board, you should always do a hot-wax base clean, followed with a thick coat of all-temp or base-prep wax without scraping it, loosen or remove the bindings to avoid tension on the inserts (and resulting pull from those inserts on the base), and lastly you need to store it lying flat. I leave mine under the bed all summer. Before season, I always scrape and start with new wax because the summer storage coat does tend to dry out and harder good, but at least the base stays perfect!

Rusty edges I am not as concerned with personally, as my boards usually last 2 seasons before the core starts to wear out. I use a gummi stone or deburring stone 1-2 times per week and clean all the rust off. By the time my boards are ready for the status of back-up they have plenty of edge left, because as I said, the rust doesn't penetrate that quickly. Just be sure they are not rusty when you store them for more than a week or pits will develop.

My last tip is for those using roof racks like me. The least work to do for rust prevention is simply spray a little WD40 on the leading edges/nose while on the rack and let it dry for a minute while you dump the rest of your gear in the car. For longer trips you can buy those cheap board sleeves for like $20 and actually place your board in the sleeve and lock it on the rack.....the sleeves likely won't last more than 1 season, but it is a cheap solution. I will actually use my double board bag for long trips and place two in it and strap them down, but the water and salt do some damage to it over time.....plus, the waterproofing does eventually leak through to the board and then it sits in a damp environment for a chunk of time. I guess there is no perfect protection unless you get a rocket-box.

-B
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